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How can one compare different types/brands of silk threads?

Thread Labeling

Let us explore the subject of thread naming and labeling. There are no types, brands or kinds of threads that are completely identical. Each one is engineered in an entirely different way, always relating to the fiber being used to produce the thread and the purpose for which the threads are being manipulated. Therefore, comparisons of one type/brand of thread to another is impossible. Each different type/brand of thread must be individually utilized to evaluate its performance for each and every project.

In the case of silk threads, they are normally labeled by weight. The silk weight numbers that are given to the TIRE silk threads is in comparison to the amount of thread that is made from a kilo of raw silk. If the TIRE thinnest silk thread ( Silk 100 Plus) is made from that kilo of thread, a certain amount of silk filaments threads of that size are produced. In contrast, when the thicker Buttonhole Silk is made from a kilo of raw silk there will be much less of that size of thread produced. The lower the number of silk weight thread, the thicker the thread, using more of the silk filaments.

Z and S Twist

The last lesson in thread engineering has to do with law of physics that keeps the thread from losing their twists. The trick is relatively simple. When the separate plies are twisted in a S direction (undertwist), they are then grouped together (with the twists held in place) and twisted in the opposite direction (or Z direction overtwist. This opposite twist magically retains the twists on the thread. Sewing machines, embroidery machines and sergers are designed for Z overtwist threads. Possibly this answers the query: “Why threads have separate plies”?

However, right-handed hand sewers tend to throw the Z thread in an S direction, causing tangling, knotting and shredding of thread fibers. Therefore, all hand embroidery thread should be designed with an S overtwist. Next time your chosen thread is not performing well, check its ply and twist. The problem may be the number of twists and/or twist direction.

Fortunately, a filament silk thread comes to the rescue once again. The direction of twists is not so much of a problem for the filaments, since there are no short fibers to be untwisted. The TIRE line of silk threads all have high twists, helping to eliminate the complete untwisting and easier shredding of the fiber.

Understanding thread • Why TIRE filament is superior • Filament thread - vs- spun tread • Correct size for your project • Compare types and brands

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